Poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima) is an attractive house plant with dark green leaves and leafy red ‘bracts’ that surround the green-yellow flowers in December and January. They’re commonly used to decorate the home at Christmas. Native to Mexico, poinsettias can be tricky to keep alive after Christmas and most are thrown away after the red bracts have faded and the festivities have ended. However, with a little care and attention it’s possible to keep your poinsettia alive throughout the year and even encourage red bracts and flowers to form in time for the following Christmas.

How to grow poinsettia

Grow poinsettia in a draught-free spot with bright, indirect light and a temperature of around 13-15°C. Water sparingly, typically when the surface of the compost has started to dry out. Mist the leaves and bracts regularly to increase humidity and keep the colourful bracts looking their best for longer. After Christmas, feed your poinsettia monthly with a high potash liquid feed, such as a tomato feed.

Buying poinsettias

If buying your poinsettia from a garden centre or supermarket, make sure it’s in good condition and that no leaves are wilting, as wilting leaves can be a sign that they’ve been stored in too-cold conditions. Avoid buying poinsettias that have been displayed near a door or even on a petrol station forecourt – they simply won’t last.

Take care to ensure it’s well protected on the journey home, making sure its delicate leaves aren’t exposed to freezing temperatures – ask the shop assistant to wrap it up or cover it in a plastic bag if you need to. Don’t leave your poinsettia in the car for longer than is absolutely necessary as temperatures can quickly tumble and your poinsettia will suffer.

How to care for a poinsettia

Watering

Water only if the surface of the compost is dry, and continue to water sparingly. Increase humidity by spraying gently with water every few days. This will help keep the leaves and bracts in tip-top condition. Dust the leaves as and when you need to, to keep your poinsettia looking its best but also ensuring its leaves can photosynthesise properly, so it remains as healthy as possible.

Light

The best place for a poinsettia is in a bright, draught-free spot out of direct sunlight.

Soil

Keep your poinsettia in the same pot you bought it in, as the compost will be just right for it. If you want to repot it after Christmas in order to encourage it to flower the following year, use a free-draining, peat-free loam-based compost, and feed fortnightly with a high potash fertiliser such as a tomato feed.

Temperature/humidity

The ideal average temperature for poinsettias is 13-15ºC. Keep away from windows, where temperatures can drop significantly at night, and from doorways and open fireplaces, which can be draughty.

Pruning

There’s no need to prune poinsettias before Christmas, but if you would like to encourage it to flower again the following year, prune back to 10cm in April.

Staking

There’s no need to stake poinsettia

How to encourage poinsettias to flower again

It’s not easy to get your poinsettia to flower again, but if you’re up for a challenge, follow these instructions carefully:

After Christmas, start feeding your poinsettia with a liquid plant food that’s high in potassium, such as tomato food.

In April, prune your poinsettia back to about 10cm, and keep at a temperature of 13°C. In early May, repot your poinsettia into a slightly larger pot with fresh, peat-free, loam-based compost, and then keep it in a draught-free spot out of direct sunlight, ensuring the temperature doesn’t exceed 18ºC.

Poinsettias develop flowers and colourful bracts when day length decreases. This occurs naturally in December, but to encourage flowering by Christmas, you’ll need to mimic short day length by moving your poinsettia into a dark cupboard for 12 hours each day, from November. Keep an even temperature of around 18ºC and make sure it’s not exposed to artificial light during this time.

Once your poinsettia has started flowering, mist leaves daily to keep them looking their best for as long as possible.

How to propagate poinsettias

Propagate your poinsettia from softwood cuttings in May. Make sure you wear gloves when doing this – like all members of the euphorbiacea family, poinsettias have milky sap that can irritate the skin.

For help finding the right gloves see our our round up of 10 of the best gardening gloves and our individual glove reviews for inspiration.

Common issues

Leaves

The most common problem when growing poinsettias is that the leaves wilt and drop off. This is a sign of cold conditions. Remember poinsettias are from Mexico and need to be kept at a minimum temperature of 13ºC, away from draughts (including near doors, fireplaces or single-glazed windows). Unfortunately, some poinsettias are kept in poor conditions in the shop or garden centre, and the leaves start to wilt when you get them home. Sadly there’s not much you can do for your poinsettia at this stage. Always buy your poinsettia from a reputable supplier and remember to protect it from cold conditions on the journey home.

Grey mould on the leaves can result from over-watering. Make sure you water your poinsettia only when the surface of the compost is dry, and mist the leaves regularly to maintain humidity around the plant.

Poinsettia varieties to grow

• Euphorbia pulcherrima ‘Silver Star’ – dusky pink bracts and variegated leaves
• Euphorbia pulcherrima ‘Lemon Snow’ – pale yellow bracts
• Euphorbia pulcherrima ‘Cortez Burgundy’ – deep plum bracts

Choose from a range of poinsettias from Gardening Express

Frequently asked questions

What is the lifespan of a poinsettia?

Given the right conditions, a poinsettia can live for up to 20 years, but most sadly die within a few weeks. This is because they are not cared for properly, and may have been exposed to draughts and cold temperatures, either in the shop or your home. Follow our detailed care guide above on how to look after a poinsettia, and you could have yours for many years to come.

Swiss cheese plants (Monstera deliciosa) are grown for their lush, glossy leaves. They add a contemporary, jungly feel to a room and are good air purifiers.

The leaves are heart-shaped when young, then become perforated (or Swiss cheese-like) as they mature. This process is known as ‘fenestration’ and it’s thought that plants do this in the wild to let as much light as possible through to the lower leaves.

Cheese plants are actually vines – they’re native to South America, where they grow up trees, clinging on with their roots. The Latin name, Monstera deliciosa, means ‘delicious monster’. Monster refers to its size – in the wild they can reach 20m high and wide. Even in the average home, cheese plants grow fast and need plenty of room – they can reach at least 2m high and 2.5m wide. In time they will need to grow up a moss pole or stick for support.

Swiss cheese plants are easy house plants to care for and are generally pest- and disease-free. They can live for years in the right conditions.

How to grow Swiss cheese plants

Cheese plants are low-maintenance plants. The main thing to remember is to provide them with the right amount of light –a bright spot, out of direct sunshine, is ideal. And don’t water too much – it’s better for the soil to be on the dry side.

More on growing Swiss cheese plants:

• 25 of the best houseplants to grow
• Easy house plants to grow

Cheese plant: jump links

• Where to grow Swiss cheese plants
• How to plant a Swiss cheese plant
• How to care for Swiss cheese plants
• How to propagate Swiss cheese plants
• Swiss cheese plant problem-solving

Where to grow a Swiss cheese plant

It’s important to find the right spot for your Swiss cheese plant. Too much bright sun and the leaves will scorch. Too much shade and the leaves won’t perforate. A spot that’s a few feet from a window, in bright light, is ideal. Do not put it near a radiator or an air conditioning unit. Give it plenty of room as it will grow to be very large.

Swiss cheese plants will only grow in temperatures over 18°C but can survive at temperatures as low as 10°C.

How to plant a Swiss cheese plant

Plant into a deep pot that has drainage holes, filled with peat-free, multi-purpose or house plant compost. There should be at least an inch of compost around the root ball.

Caring for a Swiss cheese plant

Swiss cheese plants are easy to look after. How often to water your Swiss cheese plant depends on the time of year and the conditions in the room. Rather than water to a timetable, water whenever the top inch or two of compost is dry – stick a finger into the soil to see. Be sure to let the water drain away completely afterwards. Plants need less watering in winter, especially if they are in a cool room. Feed the plant with a house plant feed once a month in spring and summer.

As the plant grows it will become floppy, so you’ll need to tie the stems into a support such as a moss or coir pole. You can find these in garden centres or online.

The plant will also grow aerial roots – long, white roots that grow from the plant’s stems. In the wild these help the plant cling to trees. Your plant will be getting its nutrients from the roots in the compost, so it’s fine to trim the aerial roots off if you find them unsightly. Alternatively you can tuck them into the compost, or let them grow up the moss pole to help support the plant.

Repot in spring into a slightly larger pot if the roots are beginning to bulge out of the pot – use plant compost or multi-purpose compost. If the plant gets too big for you to do this easily, scoop out as much of the compost from the top of the pot as you can and replace with fresh.

The big leaves can attract dust, so give them a wipe from time to time with a damp cloth to keep them looking glossy and to help the plant to breathe. If your plant is in a warm room, it will appreciate a misting of its leaves.

Watch this Care Guide with house plant expert Jane Perrone to find out more about caring for Swiss cheese plants.

How to propagate a Swiss cheese plant

It’s easy to take cuttings from a Swiss cheese plant. In spring or early summer, select a stem that has an aerial root beginning to grow lower down – look for a white/brown bud opposite a leaf. The new roots will grow from this. Using a sharp knife or secateurs, cut about an inch below the aerial root. Place the stem in a clear, deep container filled with a few inches of water, checking that the aerial root is submerged. Place in a bright spot that’s out of direct sun and refresh the water every few days. New roots should start to appear within a week or two. After about six weeks, the cutting should have formed a decent bundle of new roots that are about four inches long. The new plant can now be planted into a pot of fresh, multi-purpose or house plant compost. Water, letting any excess drain away.

Growing Swiss cheese plants: problem-solving

If the leaves on your Swiss cheese plant aren’t perforating, this may because the leaves are still young – it’s normal to have some uncut and some cut leaves on a plant. If the larger leaves are not perforating, it is due to lack of light – move to a brighter spot.

If your Swiss cheese plant is ‘crying’ – it has ‘tears’ of water at the edges of its leaves – you have over-watered it and the compost is too wet. Only water when the soil is beginning to dry out, and let excess water drain away. Make sure that the compost is not sodden – it should be just damp.

Yellow leaves can be a sign of overwatering, especially if the leaves are wilting too. It can also be a sign that the plant needs feeding.

Brown patches on the leaves are likely to be due to scorching from the sun. Move the plant out of direct sunlight.

Wilting leaves can be a sign of under-watering or over-watering. If the compost is beginning to dry out, the plant needs a drink. If it’s sodden, you’ve watered too much – let the soil dry out. It can also be a sign that the plant is becoming root-bound and unable to take up water – if roots are beginning to grow out of the bottom of the pot, it’s time to pot it into a large one.

If your plant has got too big or out of shape, the simplest solution is to prune it by cutting some stems away at the base. Wear gloves as the sap can be toxic. Alternatively, take a cutting or two and give the original plant away to someone who has more space in their home.

Mealybugs can be a problem – look out for insects that look like white, fluffy blobs on the undersides of leaves. Wipe them off with a damp cloth or cotton bud that has been soaked in an insecticide that contains fatty acids or plant oils. Keep checking the leaves, as mealybugs can be hard to eradicate.

You may also spot scale insects – small, brown sap sucking insects that are around 6mm long. Wipe off as with a cotton bud or cloth soaked with an insecticide containing fatty acids.

Varieties of Swiss cheese plant to grow

Monstera deliciosa ‘Variegatum’ is a variegated variety – the leaves look as if they have been splashed with white paint.

This article has been checked for horticultural accuracy by Oliver Parsons.

A spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum) is a good house plant for a beginner as it’s low maintenance and easy to grow. Native to South Africa, it has evergreen leaves that look good year round. Most are variegated with a white stripe down the centre of the narrow leaves like ‘Vittatum’, while others have completely green leaves. Spider plants are fast growing but compact, rarely reaching more than 50cm in height. Place them on a shelf or in hanging baskets to show off their trailing foliage.

The bonus of owning a spider plant is that it’s easy to grow more. A mature spider plant will produce stems with a baby spider plant at the tip. These tiny plants are also called ‘spiderettes’ and can be grown on to make new plants for free.

Spider plants are not toxic, so there is no need to worry about your pets or children.

Watch this Care Guide with house plant expert Jane Perrone to find out more about caring for spider plants.

How to care for a spider plant

1. Keep the compost moist throughout the growing season, from spring through summer, but reduce watering in winter. Don’t let the compost become soggy as this could lead to root rot.
2. Remove any leaves with brown tips, or if that will leave the plant denuded, just the tips. This could be caused by a number of things including underwatering or overwatering. This is not a huge problem.
3. Dust the leaves and mist your plant every so often, but it won’t mind too much if you forget.
4. Feeding is not vital, but you can feed it once a month with liquid fertiliser during the growing season.

How to prune spider plants

Remove dead, brown or yellow leaves, cutting them off at the base. If there are too many spider plant babies and you don’t plan on replanting them all, remove some to save the parent plant energy. You can also cut off excess leaves if your plant is overgrown, but it’s best to repot if the plant is getting too big.

Where to grow a spider plant

Grow these easy plants in a bright spot out of direct sun as this can scorch their leaves. They can cope with a bit of cold, but don’t leave them anywhere where the temperature will drop below 8 degrees in the winter. The best room for a spider plant will depend on the light. They can tolerate some shade, such as in a hallway, but if the leaves start to look yellow, it may be because your plant isn’t getting enough light. Although spider plants can grow well without humidity, they will do best if they are placed in a humid spot, so try it in a bathroom or kitchen, away from any south facing windows.

How to plant a spider plant

Plant spider plants into a good, peat-free potting or house plant compost. Use a pot that is just a bit bigger than the root ball. Water well and pour away any excess water in the outer pot or saucer.

How to propagate spider plants

Spider plants will produce flowers in spring and these turn into spiderettes, or spider plant babies. These can be used to produce new plants. If your spider plant has not produced babies, this could be because the plant is not yet mature enough or it is not happy in its current location.

Spider plant babies

Long, vine like stems will emerge from the centre of your plant when it is mature and happy. Spider plant babies grow at the tip of these long stems.

To make new plants from spider plant babies, either snip off the spider plant baby or grow it on while it’s still attached. It’s also possible to place the spider plant baby in a jar of water to root, before planting into a pot of compost. This can be a fun project to do with children, so they can see the roots developing. To grow on a spider plant baby while it’s still attached to the parent plant, pin it down into a pot of compost, as you would do for a strawberry runner. Water well. Once the spider plant baby has rooted into its new pot, cut it off from the main plant’s stem.

Alternatively you can cut off the spider plant baby and plant it in its own pot. Cut the stem just above the spider plant baby. Choose a baby that has already has several roots. Pot it up into peat free house plant compost. Make sure the pot has drainage holes. Water well.

Pests and diseases

Spider plants do not tend to get too many pests and are generally disease free. Look out for scale insects – you’ll find them in the nooks between leaves and you may notice a sooty mould. Try removing the insects with your fingernail or use an organic soapy spray.

Peace lily, Spathiphyllum wallisii, is a popular, low-maintenance house plant with glossy, green leaves and white flowers called spathes. Native to Central America, it lives in a warm, humid environment and is perfect for growing in a bright bathroom. Peace lilies are easy to grow and relatively trouble-free. In the video above, house plant expert Jane Perrone shares advice on caring for a peace lily.

The name ‘peace lily’ relates to its white flowers, which are thought to look like white flags (a symbol of peace). The peace lily isn’t actually a lily but an arum, and belongs to the same family as Zantedeschia and lords-and-ladies (Arum maculatum), as well as less obvious plants such as the Swiss cheese plant (Monstera deliciosa) and dumb cane (Dieffenbachia). Peace lilies are easy to grow, and help to clean and purify the air.

Although the peace lily will grow in poor light, it flowers better in bright, indirect light and will struggle to produce blooms if it is in deep shade. Peace lilies usually begin flowering in early spring, with each flower lasting up to four weeks. If your peace lily hasn’t flowered, this may be because it hasn’t reached maturity.

Tips for growing peace lily

• Grow peace lily in a bright spot out of direct sunlight.
• Water regularly, keeping the compost moist but not wet.
• In spring and summer, feed fortnightly with a liquid house-plant food.
• Deadhead spent blooms, and dust or wipe the leaves regularly to ensure they photosynthesise well. In dry rooms, you may need to mist around the leaves occasionally to raise humidity levels.
• Bear in mind that, if ingested, peace lily leaves can cause swelling of the tongue or vomiting.

Where to position a peace lily

Peace lilies thrive in spots with bright, indirect sunlight. It does not like cold draughts, so choose a location away from doors and fireplaces. Peace lilies are used to a tropical environment, so a humid room, such as a bathroom or kitchen, is ideal.

How to pot a peace lily

Peace lilies are best potted up in spring. First, check the plant’s roots – if they are densely packed, then it needs to be transferred to a bigger pot. Choose a container that is a third larger than the plant’s rootball – any larger and the plant may suffer from root rock. Fill it to two-thirds of the way up with peat-free multi-purpose or house-plant compost mixed with perlite to improve drainage. Place the peace lily in the centre, then fill around the rootball with more compost. Gently firm in. Water well and allow excess water to drain.

Caring for a peace lily

Water your peace lily regularly, so the compost never completely dries out but also making sure that it is never waterlogged. As a general rule, wait until the top few centimetres of compost have dried out before watering again. If you don’t water peace lilies often enough you’ll soon be able to tell as they wilt when dehydrated. Simply water them again and adopt a regular watering regime.

In spring and summer, feed your peace lily fortnightly with a liquid plant food, following the manufacturer’s instructions.

Repot your peace lily into a slightly larger pot, with fresh compost, every few years. They do well when their roots are a bit restricted, but recurrent wilting, despite regular watering, is a sign that the plant has outgrown its pot.

Peace lily pests and problem-solving

• Small flies around the compost will likely be fungus gnats. Fungus gnats thrive in moist compost, so try to water less frequently to break their lifecycle. You could also leave home-made traps in shallow dishes to lure and kill them – they’re attracted to sweet-smelling diluted cordial, wine and beer. Alternatively, apply the organic pesticide Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) to the soil to kill the larvae.
• Yellow leaves – the occasional yellow leaf is natural, so snip it off to make room for fresh leaf growth. Overwatering your peace lily may also lead to yellowing leaves, so let the soil dry out a bit to see if that makes any difference.
• Brown edges on the leaves indicate that your peace lily is getting too much direct sunlight. Simply move the plant out of direct sun to somewhere more shaded (ideally to a spot with bright, indirect sun).

The polka dot plant (Hypoestes phyllostachya) is bushy plant native to southern Africa, Madagascar and parts of south-east Asia. In the UK, it’s a popular house plant and works well in terrariums. Also known as the freckle face plant, it has brightly variegated or spotted leaves that look like polka dots.

There’s a wide variety of polka dot plants to choose from, including those with purple, white or red variegation, but most have green leaves with pink spots. Polka dot plants thrive in warm, humid conditions with bright, indirect light.

The polka dot plant has a moderate growth rate, although that tends to slow in unfavourable conditions.

How to grow a polka dot plant

Grow polka dot plants in peat-free house-plant compost in a warm and humid environment that has bright but indirect sunlight. Water sparingly and remove developing flowers to keep plants looking their best. In summer, feed fortnightly with a liquid house-plant fertiliser.

Where to grow polka dot plants

Grow polka dot plant in a warm and humid environment, with a minimum temperature of 15ºC and a humidity level of around 50 per cent. A warm bathroom or terrarium is ideal, as long as there is sufficient light – polka dot plants thrive in bright but indirect sunlight and can stop growing if conditions are too dark.

How to plant a polka dot plant

The polka dot plant needs a rich, free-draining potting mix. Plant it at the same depth it was in its original pot and water well, allowing excess water to fully drain away.

How to care for a polka dot plant

During the growing season, water your polka dot plant sparingly, when the top 1.5cm of soil has dried out. Reduce watering in winter and increase again once you see the first signs of growth in spring.

Feed once a month with a general-purpose liquid fertiliser. Remove any developing flowers to keep the plant looking its best.

How to propagate a polka dot plant

You can propagate polka dot plants from stem cuttings rooted in water. Just follow this simple step-by-step guide:

• Using secateurs or scissors, cut 10cm sections of stem from the main plant. Remove the leaves on the lower half of the stem
• Place the cuttings in a glass or jar of water, ensuring that only the lower portion of the stem is submerged
• Keep the cuttings in a bright, warm spot and replace the water weekly to keep it fresh
• Roots should develop within a few weeks. When they are about 10cm long, pot up the cuttings into peat-free, free-draining house-plant compost

Pests and diseases

Pests Polka dot plants may be affected by house-plant pests such as aphids, red spider mite and fungus gnats. Aphids are best removed by hand. The red spider mite thrives in dry conditions, so misting to increase humidity should stop it from breeding. Fungus gnats can be deterred by adding a thick layer of gravel over the surface of the compost.

Fading leaves Too much or too little light can cause leaves to lose their colour – direct sun can cause the variegation to fade.

Brown or drooping leaves These are signs of a lack of water or humidity. Water sparingly and move the plant to a more humid environment or mist with water to raise ambient humidity.

Yellow leaves This is a sign of overwatering – stop watering immediately and check the roots for signs of root rot. It may be necessary to repot the plant, removing any rotting bits of rootball.

Varieties of polka dot plant

Hypoestes White – a cheerful variety with green and ivory variegation. Height x Spread: 30cm x 40cm

• Buy Hypoestes White from Thompson & Morgan

Hypoestes Pink – pink foliage splashed with dark-green variegation. H x S: 30cm x 30cm

• Buy Hypoestes Pink from Topical Glass

Hypoestes Red – dark pink to red leaves with contrasting dark-green variegation. H x S: 30cm x 30cm

• Buy Hypoestes Red from Thompson & Morgan

Yuccas are evergreen shrubs and trees from hot, dry areas of north and central America. Many are hardy and can be grown outside, but tender types can be grown as house plants. The most popular is Yucca elephantipes (often sold as Yucca guatamalensis or Yucca gigantea), also known as spineless yucca or yucca cane. It has an impressive crown of spiky leaves on top of a palm-like trunk, making it a good focal point in a room.

Yucca is a great plant for beginners as it’s easy to grow, tolerant of neglect and can be very long-lived. Unlike many house plants, it can cope with a spot in bright sunshine, so is a good plant for a sunny corner where little else will thrive. Yuccas store water at their base, so are tolerant of drought.

Yuccas are slow growing, so can take time to reach their ultimate size. As the plant grows, it may produce offsets at the base, giving a multi-stemmed look.

How to grow yucca

Yuccas do best in bright light and can cope with some direct sunshine. Water only when the top few centimetres of the soil are dry. Yuccas are tolerant of drought.

Growing yucca: jump links

• Where to grow yucca
• How to care for yucca
• How to propagate yucca
• Yucca problem-solving
• Types of yucca to grow

Where to grow yucca

Yuccas are one of the least fussy plants you can grow. Ideally, grow it in a warm room where the temperature won’t fall below 7°C. It can cope with some direct sunlight.

How to plant yucca

Place your yucca plant in soil-based compost, with some horticultural sand or grit added for good drainage. Repot every two or three years. Use a sturdy pot to avoid the plant becoming top heavy and toppling over as it grows.

Yucca plant care

You’re more likely to kill a yucca plant by watering it too much than too little. Water when the top few centimetres of compost have dried out, but don’t worry if the soil dries out completely from time to time – yuccas are tolerant of drought. Allow any excess water to drain away. Water more sparingly in winter.

Feed every couple of months with half-strength liquid fertiliser from spring to autumn. Yuccas don’t require high humidity so you won’t need to mist it. Wipe the leaves occasionally to keep the leaves free of dust.

Yuccas do well when slightly pot bound, so they don’t need repotting very often – every two or three years in spring is fine. It can be hard to repot a mature yucca due its unwieldy shape – in that case, remove as much compost from the surface as you can using a trowel and top up with fresh compost.

If your plant becomes too big, just cut the trunk down to the height that you want – it may look unsightly for a while, but it should soon re-sprout. You could repot the chunk that you have cut off to propagate it as a new house plant.

How to propagate yucca

The easiest way to propagate a yucca plant is from the offsets (pups) at the base of the trunk. You could do this when you repot the plant in spring. Simply cut off an offset using a sharp knife. Allow the wound to dry out for a few days, then transfer the new plant into a new pot and water well. Keep in a warm spot.

You can also propagate yuccas from 20cm stem cuttings in spring, in a similar way to dracaenas. See the link below for more information.

• Take stem cuttings from dracaenas

You can also grow yuccas from seed.

Growing yucca plants: problem solving

Yellow leaves Yellowing is normal on lower leaves – they will die back and fall naturally, giving the plant a palm-like appearance over time. You can gently pull off the leaves or cut them off. If there are yellow leaves all over the plant, you will have either overwatered it or not given it enough water.

Brown or black spots on the foliage This is leaf spot, caused by bacteria or fungi. Remove any affected leaves and treat with an organic fungicide.

Brown leaf tips This is usually due to erratic watering. You can cut these off, but don’t cut into green growth, otherwise they’ll reappear.

Sagging, droopy leaves This is a result of underwatering.

Pale leaves Too much shade causes leaves to turn pale.

Rotting stems This is due to overwatering and is more likely to happen in winter. Yuccas do not enjoy sitting in cold, wet compost, so reduce watering. If the problem has spread too far, you may not be able to save the plant.

Mealybugs You may find insects that look like white, fluffy blobs. These are mealybugs and are usually found on the undersides of leaves. Wipe them off with a damp cloth or cotton bud that has been soaked in an insecticide that contains fatty acids or plant oils. Keep checking the leaves, as mealybugs can be hard to eradicate.

Scale insects You may also spot scale insects, which are small, brown, sap-sucking insects that are around 6mm long. Wipe them off with a cotton bud or cloth soaked with an insecticide containing fatty acids.

Varieties of yucca to grow

Yucca aloifolia is also known as the Spanish bayonet. As its name suggests, the leaves have very sharp points. Keep them away from young children and away from eye level.

Also known as orchid cacti, epiphyllum cacti are tropical, succulent plants with a trailing habit and large, showy flowers. They’re native to the rainforests of Central and South America, but in the UK they make excellent house plants.

Epiphyllum cacti are epiphytes, which means they grow on the branches or trunks of trees. They don’t parasitise their host tree, instead they absorb water and nutrients from the humid atmosphere around them.

There are many different types of epiphyllum cacti, with flower colours including red, white, pink, purple, yellow or orange. Stems tend to be long and flat, with scalloped edges. One of the most common epiphyllum cacti is the fishbone cactus, which is most commonly available from garden centres and other large suppliers of house plants. However, this is technically not an epiphyllum as it was recently reclassified into the Disocactus genus. It’s now known as Disocactus anguliger rather than Epiphyllum anguliger. 

Epiphyllum cacti typically have a trailing habit, with stems up to 60cm long. They are often grown on shelves or in hanging pots, where their trailing stems can be shown off to good effect.

How to grow epiphyllum cacti

The key to growing epiphyllum cacti with success is to recreate the tropical conditions they are used to. They need bright but indirect light, temperatures of at least 15ºC in spring and summer, and high levels of humidity. Unlike most cacti, epiphyllum cacti do best out of direct sunlight and need high humidity and regular watering.

Where to grow epiphyllum cacti

Grow epiphyllum cacti in a humid room such as a bathroom or kitchen. Keep out of bright, direct light and ensure temperatures remain above 15ºC in spring and summer, but around 10-14ºC in winter.

How to plant epiphyllum cacti

Choose a pot slightly bigger than the rootball, as they are more likely to flower when slightly pot-bound.

Use a free-draining compost such as a peat-free cactus compost, or add grit or perlite to a multi-purpose compost.

Be gentle with the long trailing stems, which break easily.

Position the plant so its rootball is at the same depth it was previously. Firm in well and water thoroughly, allowing the water to drain.

Caring for epiphyllum cacti

From mid-spring to late summer, water regularly to keep the compost slightly moist but not soggy. Water whenever it begins to dry out, and let the excess drain away. Don’t leave plants standing in water.

If you need to, raise humidity by standing the pot on a tray of pebbles, with the water sitting just beneath the top of the pebbles so it isn’t absorbed by the plant’s roots.

To encourage flowering the following year, move your epiphyllum cactus to a cooler place for winter, around 10–14°C, and reduce watering. Then, once flower buds appear, return it to its usual position, at 15°C or above.

Always keep epiphyllum cacti away from radiators and draughts.

There’s no need to worry about repotting your epiphyllum cactus regularly, as they tend to thrive when slightly root-bound. If you do need to repot your plant, do so after flowering but before the plant goes dormant for winter.

Remove faded flowers as and when you need to. Old, tatty stems can be removed from the base of the plant or shortened if they become too long – new shoots will develop from the cut.

Propagating epiphyllum cacti

Propagate epiphyllum cacti by taking stem cuttings. Simply remove a stem and cut it into 15-20cm sections, then leave them in a warm spot for a few days so the cut wounds can callous over.

Insert the cuttings vertically, 2.5–5cm deep, into a pot of gritty, free-draining compost. Keep the pot at an even temperature of 18–24°C. They should root within six weeks.

Pests and problem-solving

Epiphyllum cacti are generally free from pests and diseases. However, you may notice the following problems:

Failure to flower may be due to the plant not receiving the cooler, drier spell that stimulates flower growth in winter. Or perhaps it’s growing in a pot that’s too big for its rootball. Ensure it’s slightly pot-bound and move to a cooler spot in autumn and reduce watering, then return it to its warmer location when you see flower buds.

Brown spots or discoloured stems could be the result of sun scorch. Keep plants in bright but indirect light, away from strong sunlight.

Like all house plants, epiphyllum cacti can be susceptible to mealybugs, aphids and red spider mite. If growing outdoors in summer you may need to protect plants from slugs and snails.

Getting the light levels right for your house plants is vital if they are to thrive. To keep your house plants happy, it’s important to be realistic about low the light conditions can be. No house plant will thrive in in a room where it receives no light at all and there are very few plants that can cope with shade, or at the back of a room with no direct sun – for this try devil’s ivy or Chinese evergreen. There are, though, a good range of plants that will thrive in low light.

Low light positions are near north- and east-facing windows, where a room gets sun for half the day, or in a corner of a room that gets some sun, or near a window that doesn’t get direct sun. If you’re looking for the perfect plant for a lightly shaded bedroom or hallway look at plants such as the Cast iron plant or mistletoe cactus, which do best in low light.

Some plants may be able to tolerate shade in summer, but need to be moved in winter to receive more light. Look out for signs that house plants are struggling in their low light position. Signs of too little light include lower leaves falling off or turning yellow, no growth or smaller than average leaves.

We’ve listed some of the best indoor plants for low light below:

Best tall indoor plants for low light

ZZ plant (Zamioculcas zamiifolia)

Zamioculcas zamiifolia, also known as fern arum or the ZZ plant, has an upright shape that makes it useful for those with limited space. The evergreen leaves are long and glossy, adding interest to a room year round. It will grow in light shade and low humidity. Keep out of reach of children and pets as all parts of the plant are toxic.

Height x Spread: 1m x 80cm

• Buy ZZ plant from Crocus

Snake plant (Sanseveria trifasciata)

Snake plants are among the easiest house plants to grow due to their unfussy nature. This variety will thrive in light shade and only needs watering when the compost has dried out. Some varieties, such as ‘Laurentii’ have dark green leaves with deep yellow edges, while others have cream or white edging.

H x S: 1.2m x 50cm

• Buy snake plant from Gardening Express

Madagascar dragon tree (Dracaena marginata) 

The Madagascar Dragon tree has spiky leaves held on tall stems, which are striped with green, pink and cream. Reaching up to 2m in height, this is a great plant for the corner of an office or living room, especially as, according to the RHS, it’s one of the best plants for removing toxins from the air.

H x S: 2m x 1.5m

• Buy dragon tree from Crocus

Corn plant (Dracaena fragrans)

The leaves of the corn plant can be green with a yellow stripe in the centre or green, or yellow with a green centre, and they grow up to 40cm long. This is another good plant for adding height to a room, with the leaves held at the top of thick, cane-like stems. Dracaena fragans will thrive in light shade to bright, indirect light.

• Buy corn plant from Patch Plants

Parlour palm (Chamaedorea elegans)

Parlour palms can tolerate low light, providing welcome greenery to any rooms that are low on light. They are also low-maintenance house plants, only requiring watering once the top few inches of compost have dried out, with minimal watering during winter.

H x S: 2.5m x 1.5m

• Buy parlour palm from Crocus

Low light indoor hanging plants

Heart leaf plant (Philodendron scandens) 

Named for the shape of its leaves, this attractive climber can be grown up a moss pole or planted in a hanging basket, where its stems will trail over the sides. Although it grows well in bright, indirect light, the heart leaf plant will also grow in light shade.

H x S: 4m x 2m

• Buy heart leaf plant from Crocus

Golden pothos (Epripremnum aureum)

This plant is popular with beginners because it’s often listed as ‘unkillable’. This is also thought to be the reason behind its common name, Devil’s ivy. It has long stems of green heart-shaped leaves that can reach over 20m outdoors, but which are unlikely to grow more than 2m indoors. Golden pothos can tolerate partial shade but variegated varieties may lose some of their colouring.

H x S: 2m x 75cm

• Buy golden pothos from Crocus

Mistletoe cactus (Rhipsalis baccifera)

Known as either the mistletoe cactus, for its small white berries, or spaghetti cactus, for its long succulent stems, this plant will thrive on a shelf in low light or bright, indirect light. Unlike most cacti, it can adapt to grow in low light conditions.

H x S: 2m x 60cm

• Buy mistletoe cactus from Crocus 

Very low light indoor hanging plants

Ivy

Ivy is the perfect house plant for a hanging basket in the shade, being tolerant of low light and providing evergreen foliage year round. Its stems can grow up to 4m indoors, but it’s easy to keep under control with pruning.

H x S: 4m x 4m

• Buy ivy from The Little Botanical

Large indoor plants for low light

Philodendron xanadu

Cheer up a shady hall or corner with this elegant philodendron. It’s easy to look after and will do best in a room where it’s shaded from the sun. The leaves of this large plant are glossy and can reach up to 45cm long.

H x S: 1m x 1m

• Buy Philodendron xanadu from Crocus 

Swiss cheese plant (Monstera deliciosa)

This giant has large leaves up to 90cm long, which develop holes as the plant matures. The Swiss cheese plant will add architectural value to an east- or north-facing room. Although it grows well in low light, it won’t develop holes in its leaves if you place it in too much shade.

H x S: 2.5m x 2m

• Buy Swiss cheese plant from Crocus 

Prayer plant (Maranta leuconeura)

Prayer plants come from the jungle where they grow on the ground, which means they thrive in indirect light or low light conditions. At night the plants fold up their leaves, which are beautifully variegated with bright red lines on the upper side and purple or green undersides. Although prayer plants are fairly easy to look after, they do need a warm room and some humidity.

H x S: 30cm x 60cm

• Buy prayer plant from Gardening Express

Small indoor plants for low light

Spider plant

Spider plants are tough and will weather neglect well, but they are also good looking, with arching variegated leaves that can be smooth or curly,  depending on the variety. They are easy to look after, growing well in light shade or bright indirect light.

H x S: 50cm x 30cm

• Buy spider plant from Crocus

Cast iron plant (Aspidistra elatior)

Once popular with the Victorians, the cast iron plant is a great choice for beginners as it can tolerate some neglect, including irregular watering. After watering, let the soil dry out completely before watering again. Cast iron plant will grow well in most light conditions, including partial shade.

H x S: 60cm x 60cm

• Buy cast iron plant from Crocus

Do you have small black flies living in your house plant compost? Or hovering around your house plants? These are fungus gnats, also known as house plant flies and sciarid flies. They’re mostly harmless – adult gnats cause little or no harm to plants, but they can become a nuisance in the home. Their tiny worm-like larvae live in the top 5-8cm of compost, where they feed on algae, fungi and plant roots. Healthy house plants usually tolerate this minor root damage, but the larvae can harm seedlings or weak plants.

How to identify fungus gnats

Fungus gnats are small black flies that fly around house plants and live in house plant compost. You may mistake them for fruit flies – but if they’re in and around your house plants, they’re likely to be sciarid flies.

How to get rid of fungus gnats

Getting rid of fungus gnats is easier than you might think. Simply by watering less often and using a gravel mulch you can break the fungus gnat lifecycle and stop them breeding in your house plant compost. But there are other ways, too. We list four ways to get rid of fungus gnats, below.

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You Will Need

• House plants
• Yellow sticky traps
• Grit mulch
• Biological control for fungus gnats

Step 1: Water less often

Fungus gnat larvae need damp compost to live, as this is where algae and fungi thrive, on which the larvae feed. Simply by allowing the compost dry out between waterings, you’ll greatly reduce the fungus gnat population.

Step 2: Use a gravel mulch

Most commercially available composts have been sterilised, so they don’t contain fungus gnat larvae. If you cover the surface of the compost with a 1cm-thick mulch of gravel, grit or ornamental glass pebbles, this will stop house plant flies from being able to lay their eggs. Avoid using home-made garden compost indoors, as this can be a source of fungus gnats.

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Step 3: Use sticky traps

Yellow sticky traps work by trapping the adult fungus gnats and breaking their lifecycle. Simply hang up a trap near affected plants, or attach it to a bamboo cane inserted into the compost. Keep the trap near soil level, as gnats rarely fly far from the compost. Avoid hanging the traps outside as you’ll also trap butterflies and hoverflies.

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• Buy eco-friendly yellow sticky traps from Amazon
• Buy a pack of 5 Dragonfli eco sticky traps from Thompson & Morgan

Step 4: Use biological control

If you have lots of house plants, it may be worth applying a biological control. To tackle fungus gnats use the nematode Steinernema feltiae, predatory mites or rove beetle larvae, and apply according to the pack instructions. These are available from online suppliers. While nematodes can be used in the home, the mites and beetle larvae are best used only in the contained environment of a greenhouse or sealed conservatory. If you’ve only got a few house plants, try growing a sundew (Drosera) nearby, as these sticky carnivorous plants are very good at trapping fungus gnats.

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• Buy sciarid fly nematodes from Gardening Naturally
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• Buy a sundew plant from Crocus

Never never plants, Ctenanthe, are tropical jungle plants, native to Central and South America. They’re grown as house plants for their decorative oval leaves, which are striped, sometimes in a herringbone pattern, in dark or light green, yellow or silver, often with a purple or red underside. There are 15 species in the Ctenanthe genus, with plants ranging from the compact Ctenanthe burle-marxii and Ctenanthe setosa to the towering Ctenanthe oppenheimiana, which can grow to a metre tall.

Ctenanthe (pronounced ten-an-thee) are part of the Marantaceae family, which also includes Calathea and Goeppertia. Both Ctenanthe and Calathea have the common name prayer plant, because their leaves fold up at night and unfold in the morning. It’s not known exactly why plants do this but there are a few theories, including to protect their leaves from predators or to conserve water.

Ctenanthe is not considered harmful to humans or pets.

How to grow Ctenanthe

Never never plants grow best in temperatures from 16-25ºC in bright, indirect light. They will tolerate temperatures down to 10ºC but need high humidity.

Where to grow Ctenanthe

Avoid growing ctenanthe in a spot that gets direct sunlight, because this will scorch their leaves. They can cope with some shade, but the best place for them is a light room with high levels of humidity, such as a steamy bathroom or kitchen.

How to plant Ctenanthe

Ctenanthe need repotting around every two years – go up one pot size and plant into a peat-free house plant compost.

How to care for Ctenanthe

If the room your ctenanthe plant is in doesn’t have high humidity, mist regularly to prevent your plant developing brown tips at the end of its leaves. Alternatively, to increase humidity, put your plant on a tray of moist pebbles or gravel. Wipe the leaves every so often to remove dust.

Water once the top couple of inches of compost are dry. You can test this by sticking your finger into the compost. If the leaves have curled up (during the day, rather than folded up at night), this could mean that your plant is lacking in water.

Ctenanthe does not require pruning but remove any dying or yellow leaves.

How to propagate Ctenanthe

The easiest way to propagate ctenanthe is to repot any small plants growing around the parent plant, making sure you remove each offset with its roots intact. It’s also simple to divide the root ball, by removing it from the pot and gently pulling it apart into sections – making sure that each section has a shoot and roots. Repot sections into individual pots of house plant compost.

Pests and diseases

Ctenanthe are generally disease-free but can be susceptible to mealybugs. Look out for small, white insects that look like woodlice. They feed on the plant’s sap, producing a sticky substance called honeydew which can result in sooty mould on the leaves.

If there are not many insects, remove them with tweezers. Alternatively, put the plant outside during good weather to let birds eat the insects. There is a biological control available, a predatory ladybird, which is best applied in summer.

Ctenanthe varieties to grow

Ctenanthe burle-marxii – this popular house plant has striking foliage – pale green upper leaves with dark green markings and a purple underside. Height x Spread: 60cm x 35cm

• Buy Ctenanthe. burle-marxii from Leaf Envy

Ctenanthe oppenheimiana – rich green leaf markings on a tall plant make this a stand out variety.  H x S: 1m x 60cm

• Buy Ctenanthe. oppenheimiana from Dobies

Ctenanthe ‘Compactstar’ – silvery green leaves with a darker green herringbone pattern and a purple underside. H x S: 50cm x 30cm

• Buy Ctenanthe ‘Compact Star’ from Houseplant.co.uk