The sunflower is one of the nation’s best-loved flowers. Although most varieties have yellow blooms, you can grow sunflowers with rusty-red, green and even white flowers.

Annual sunflowers are fast growers and can reach a height of 2m or more in just three months. Bear in mind that their growth rate and eventual height depend on factors like variety, availability of food and water, and weather conditions, so you’re not always guaranteed the heights predicted on your seed packet. For best results, grow your sunflowers in rich soil in open ground, in a sunny, sheltered spot, and water and feed frequently.

Sunflowers bloom from summer to autumn. Depending on the variety, annual sunflowers take 11-18 weeks to flower from seed. With that in mind, it’s a good idea to sow sunflower seed every couple of weeks, so you’ll have a constant supply of cheerful blooms throughout summer.

Sunflowers are easy to grow from seed and are ideal for growing with children. They bear impressive, long-lasting flowers, and look fantastic in gardens and allotments. They also make an excellent cut flower. They are non-toxic to pets and humans.

Perennial sunflowers come back year after year but annual types flower, set seed and die in one year.

Did you know? Sunflowers are related to Jerusalem artichokes, Helianthus tuberosus. If you plant Jerusalem artichokes they will bear beautiful, sunflower-like blooms, provided conditions are hot enough and they receive enough sunshine.

How to grow sunflowers

Growing sunflowers from seed is easy – you just need a sunny, sheltered spot and good soil – add some well-rotted manure or garden compost before planting to enrich your soil, if necessary. Protect the young plants from slugs and snails, and water regularly. You may also need to stake them if they’re in an exposed position.

Choose your variety carefully as dwarf sunflowers grow to around 50cm, while taller varieties can reach up to 3m in height. Sow seeds in pots from April and plant out a few weeks later. Water frequently and, if growing for height, feed weekly with a nitrogen-rich fertiliser to encourage them to grow tall. You may need to stake some of the taller varieties.

Where to grow sunflowers

Sunflowers need sun. For best results, grow them in rich, fertile soil in a sheltered, sunny spot.

Sunflowers grow well in pots but if you’re growing for height, it’s best to grow them in the ground.

When to plant sunflower seeds

The best time to plant sunflower seeds is between April and May. You can sow sunflower seed as late as mid-June but bear in mind they take up to 18 weeks to flower from seed so they may not flower before autumn.

Sow seeds individually in 10cm pots of peat-free, multi-purpose compost. Cover the pots with a clear plastic bag and place them in a warm spot for the best chances of germination. Remove the plastic cover once the seedlings have emerged. When the seedlings are large enough to handle, harden them off gradually – for about two to three weeks – then plant them outdoors. You may need to protect them from slugs and snails. Alternatively just sow the seeds direct in the ground from mid-April onwards, but be mindful of slugs and snails.

How to plant sunflowers

If your garden has a lot of slugs and snails, your sunflowers may benefit from being potted on into larger pots of fresh compost, then hardened off before planting out into the soil. This means the plants will be bigger when in their final growing positions, and therefore more resilient to slugs and snails. Regardless of how big they are, don’t plant seedlings out until the soil has warmed considerably and the risk of frost has passed.

Watch Monty Don sow sunflower seeds as part of his giant sunflower trial, in this clip from Gardeners’ World:

When planting out, prepare the soil by removing weeds and if necessary add plenty of organic matter such as compost or well-rotted manure. Plant the sunflowers at the same depth they were in the pot. Water well and stake taller varieties with a bamboo cane or similar.

Here, Monty plants out his sunflowers and explains how to stake them:

Growing sunflowers in pots

Sunflowers do well in pots, although they usually don’t grow as tall as those growing in the ground. Sunflower plants are heavy feeders, so make sure you water the pots regularly (daily in hot weather) and feed fortnightly with a nitrogen-rich fertiliser, switching to a high-potash fertiliser, such as a tomato feed, when the plants begin to bloom.

To grow sunflowers in containers, sow the seeds in small pots as you would normally in spring, and then transplant them individually into larger ones when they’re large enough to handle, eventually potting them on into a 30cm pot of loam-based, peat-free compost, ideally with added organic matter. Stake taller varieties as you would for plants growing in the ground.

Caring for sunflowers

Annual sunflowers need plenty of water and will suffer if allowed to dry out. If you’re growing for height, feed them fortnightly with a nitrogen-rich fertiliser and then switch to a potash-rich tomato feed just before flowering.

Stake tall varieties with a sturdy cane to prevent wind rock, especially if growing in an exposed position.

After flowering, you can deadhead spent blooms or leave the faded flowerhead intact so the birds can feast on the seeds. Once they have eaten their fill pull out the entire plant and put it on the compost heap, chopping up the thick stem so it will rot down more quickly.

Find out which sunflower fares best in Monty’s giant sunflower trial update:

How to harvest sunflower seeds

After flowering, sunflower heads develop masses of seed. You can harvest these to use in cooking, but bear in mind you will need to remove the tough seed coat before eating. Better still, remove the seeds from the seedhead and leave them to dry for a few days, before storing in a paper envelope in a dry spot, so you can sow them the following year. Make sure you leave some seeds for the birds, too.

How to propagate sunflowers

After harvesting the sunflower seeds, space them out on kitchen roll to dry for a few days, and then store in a paper envelope in a cool, dry spot for winter. Sow the seed in 7cm pots of peat-free, multi-purpose compost from April the following year.

Pests and diseases

Sunflowers are generally trouble free but young seedlings are susceptible to slug and snail damage. If your garden has a lot of slugs and snails, avoid planting sunflowers until they are big enough to withstand being attacked. If growing sunflowers in a greenhouse or cold frame, then regularly inspecting and removing slugs and snails can be effective. Also consider using wildlife-friendly copper tape to keep molluscs at bay.

Black spots on sunflower leaves are most likely caused by sooty mould. Sooty mould forms on honeydew, a sugary substance excreted by sap-sucking insects like aphids and mealybugs. If you’re also noticing a lot of ants on your sunflowers, this is because ants ‘farm’ aphids for their honeydew, which they drink. As your sunflower grows it becomes less attractive to aphids – they prefer young foliage – and so there will be less honeydew and less sooty mould. However, if you’re worried, you could rub the aphids off your plants with your fingers.

Sunflowers to grow 

‘Russian Giant‘ is a huge annual sunflower, bearing a single flower and growing as high as 3m. This traditional yellow-flowered variety blooms from July to September.

Height x Spread: 3m x 60cm

• Buy sunflower ‘Russian Giant’ from Thompson & Morgan

This red-flowered ‘Shock-o-lat’ bears large flowerheads with bronze-red petals with yellow tips and a red-brown central boss that yields edible seeds. The stems have a purple tinge, which contrasts well with the green of the leaves.

Hx S: 2m x 60cm

• Buy sunflower ‘Shock-o-lat’ from Dobies

This perennial ‘Lemon Queen’ bears masses of small, lemon-yellow blooms from July to September, and comes back year after year.

H x S: 2m x 45cm

• Buy sunflower ‘Lemon Queen’ from Crocus

One of the best dwarf sunflowers to grow, ‘Choco Sun’ is fast growing and bears masses of large yellow flowerheads. It’s a perfect sunflower for pots and fun for children to grow.

H x S: 35cm x 35cm

• Buy sunflower ‘Choco Sun’ from Thompson & Morgan

Bird food is a small but crucial way of supporting British wildlife. Provide meals for birds and their young and you’ll be rewarded with beautiful birdsong and displays of natural colour.

Bird food is a vital source of energy for birds. It feeds not only adult birds but also their chicks and makes birds bigger and stronger, ensuring a healthier population. It also means you’ll have birds visiting your garden all day long.

A host of different bird feed is available to provide for a wide variety of birds, all year-round. Mixed bird feed will feed insectivores, omnivores, and herbivorous birds alike. Alternatively, you can tailor your food to the birds you know visit your garden or that you hope to attract. Insectivores like house martins won’t go for sunflower hearts; conversely, wood pigeons won’t eat from feeders filled with mealworms.

Looking to support British Wildlife? Have a look at our guide to bird feeders or bird tables. Offer birds a home with our guide to bird nesting boxes and check up on your new wild companions with a bird box camera.

Browse our pick of bird food below:

Nutritious bird feeds for your garden

Peckish Natural Balance Seed Mix, 1.7kg

Price: £3.99 for 1.7kg

Available from Pets at Home

This mixed bird food is perfect for supporting a wide variety of birds. It also has great green credentials – its packaging is entirely recyclable and contains no plastic.

Extra Select Premium Wild Bird Food

Price: £2.09 for 1kg

Buy Extra Select Premium Wild Bird Food on Amazon

[image id="108530" size="full" title="Extra Select Premium Wild Bird Food, 5 Litre - BBC Gardeners' World Magazine" alt="Extra Select Premium Wild Bird Food, 5 Litre - BBC Gardeners' World Magazine" classes=""] Extra Select Premium Wild Bird Food, 5 Litre

With eight different ingredients, this bird food is perfect for attracting a wide variety of birds. A great starting point for first-time use or gardeners on a budget.

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RSPB Favourites blend bird food

Price: £9.50 for 1.8kg

Available from RSPB

RSPB Favourites Blend

The RSPB have combined their best-selling bird foods into this mix of ingredients. With sunflower hearts, a pellet mix of suet and raisins, and dried mealworms, this bird food is the avian equivalent of a full English: high-protein, high-calorie sustenance.

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National Trust CJ Wildlife Hi-Energy No Mess Seed Mix

Price: £2.98 per kg

Available from Ocado

[image id="108621" size="full" title="National Trust CJ Wildlife Hi-Energy No Mess Seed Mix, 3L - BBC Gardeners' World Magazine" alt="National Trust CJ Wildlife Hi-Energy No Mess Seed Mix, 3L - BBC Gardeners' World Magazine" classes=""] National Trust CJ Wildlife Hi-Energy No Mess Seed Mix, 3L

This seed mix is good for birds and good for your lawns and patios. With no wheat filler or husks, this bird food won’t leave debris all over your garden, but still provides great nutrition.

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Peckish Complete Seed and Nut

Price: from £5.35  for 1.7kg

Available from Amazon

[image id="108533" size="full" title="Peckish Complete Seed and Nut 5kg - BBC Gardeners' World" alt="Peckish Complete Seed and Nut 5kg - BBC Gardeners' World" classes=""] Peckish Complete Seed and Nut 5kg

This is an impressive mix of twelve different seeds and nuts. It’s no-mess and is also vitamin fortified to help birds grow strong bones and produce robust eggshells. Great for attracting songbirds.

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Seedzbox Ultimate Deluxe Wild Bird Seed Feed

Price: £10.99

Available from Seedzbox

This bird feed mix has a remarkable variety of ingredients. It’s designed to not only maximise the number of birds enjoying your garden, but to provide them with a diverse source of proteins and carbohydrates. This seed also donates to One Tree Planted, a non-profit which plants trees.

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RSPB No grow ground mix

Price: £4.25 for 900kg

Available from RSPB

[image id="108605" size="full" title="2048-1365-gw-bird-food-RSPB-No-grow-ground-mix-5.5kg" alt="RSPB No grow ground mix 5.5kg - BBC Gardeners' World Magazine" classes=""] RSPB No grow ground mix 5.5kg

This no-grow mix is good for fastidious gardeners. The mix has been selected and cut to lower the chance of this feed germinating in your garden. It’s a hearty mix of suet, rolled oats and flaked maize – perfect for bigger songbirds like blackbirds.

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What should I feed the birds?

Bird foods can be split into four rough categories – insects, high-protein sources, seeds and grains, and berries.

Insects

Insects such as dried mealworms are great for most British birds, which are largely omnivorous. Dried or roasted mealworms are most common but waxworms, earthworms, and crickets are also fantastic unprocessed food sources, though they can be a little more expensive.

Protein sources

High-energy, high-protein food like sunflower hearts, suet or nuts are vital in winter. Just as for humans, proteins are crucial for helping birds build crucial muscle mass and body fat. However, in too large a quantity they can be unhealthy, so make sure you provide a healthy balance with different types of foods. It’s also good to make sure they’re in small pieces, so birds – especially chicks – don’t choke.

Seeds and grains

These are helpful all year round and are a mainstay of most birds’ diet. Try to avoid feed with wheat, because this has little nutritional value for birds and is used to bulk up feed – birds often won’t eat it either, and will dump it on the ground to get to tastier food. Keen gardeners will appreciate no-grow seeds, which have been roasted, cracked, or ground so that they don’t germinate in borders or lawns.

Berries

Birds and berries have a symbiotic relationship; berries give birds vital nutrients and vitamins, and birds excrete berry seeds so new shrubs and trees can grow. In areas without shrubbery or hedgerows, birds can miss out on this crucial part of their diet, so berries should be a mainstay of a good bird food. Mixed bird foods that include dried berries particularly suits robins, sparrows, and thrushes in late summer and autumn.

A less direct way to feed birds is in your gardening itself. Plants offer a fantastic opportunity to provide natural wild bird food as part of your wider garden design. Sunflowers and their seeds are a great source of protein, and holly and blackthorn provide invaluable berries year-round.

Where should I put bird food?

It’s best to put your feeder or bird table somewhere quiet, out of the reach of predators like cats or bigger birds. Bird food needs to be sheltered by greenery, both to protect birds from the weather and to give them a place to scout your feeder and check that they’re safe to feed. Read more tips on deterring cats from your garden.

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When should I feed the birds?

It’s good to leave food out for birds year-round, but their needs do change with the seasons:

In Winter and Spring – the best bird food for winter and spring is heavy, protein-rich food like suet. In the colder seasons it’s crucial that birds find high-energy snacks to feed themselves and their chicks.

In Summer and Autumn – lighter food like oats and millet are great for summer, when food is more plentiful and chicks are grown.

What shouldn’t I feed wild birds?

Although some food from our kitchens is fine to give to birds, some should definitely be avoided:

• Don’t feed birds big chunks of anything, because they can choke on the pieces. This is true for whole peanuts, desiccated coconut, and dry pieces of bread. Chop up your bird food to make it easier for them to eat.
• Junk food like crisps or biscuit crumbs are also a choking hazard, as well as containing dangerous additives with little nutritional value. Salty food like bacon rinds are also potentially hazardous, because birds can’t process the high levels of salt in human food. So while birds love peanuts, use plain, unseasoned ones.
• Milk causes gut problems in birds and although some can eat fermented dairy – robins love mild grated cheddar – it’s best to err on the side of caution and avoid dairy products.
• Just as it does to humans, mouldy food can make birds ill. Make sure to store your bird food somewhere dry and clean out your bird feeder every few days to make sure food hasn’t gone off. This is especially important if you live in a city, or near water, as this food could attract rats .

 

This Product Guide was last updated in February 2025. We apologise if anything has changed in price or availability. 

Not every gardening task needs to take place in the open air, and jobs such as potting are much easier to complete at worktop height. A potting bench can be a practical addition to your shed or workshop, providing a surface to work from as well as additional storage. If you have limited space, a simple potting tray can also be a useful choice to help you contain any mess while potting.

Below, we have sourced some of the best potting benches and trays available. There are a range of options included, covering various sizes from full benches with incorporated storage to manoeuvrable table-top trays. The products are also constructed from a range of materials including galvanised steel for durability and FSC-certified (Forest Stewardship Council) wood which is sustainably sourced.

If you usually work from a shed or outdoor workshop, you may find our shed storage ideas useful, as well as our guide to the best garden sheds.

10 of the best potting benches and trays

Browse our list of some of the best potting benches and trays.

This potting bench has a storage shelf below and a lip around the sides and the back to contain the compost as you work. It’s made from FSC-certified wood, which is sustainably sourced and has been pressure treated for durability. It comes with a 15 year anti-rot guarantee.  The bench arrives flatpack to be assembled at home.

Dimensions: H108 x W92 x D52cm

Ideal for those who could do with a little extra storage, this potting bench from Not On The High Street has two drawers, designed especially for storing loose soil. There are also handy hooks for hanging tools along the side, plus a shelf for tubs, watering cans or extra trays. This bench is part of a wider Moreton range, so you can coordinate it with other pieces for your shed or workshop if you choose.

Dimensions: H91 x W89 x D40cm

The Aldsworth potting table is made from sustainably sourced, untreated Spruce wood. There’s is a sheet metal worktop which is galvanised for durability plus three drawers and a slatted shelf for versatile storage. The muted grey wood frame makes it a stylish and understated choice which wouldn’t look out of a place in a kitchen.

Dimensions: H82 x W110 x D40.5cm

This potting bench features a zinc coated steel worktop to provide a hard-wearing surface for potting, planting and other gardening tasks. The frame is constructed from FSC timber and has large upper and lower shelving offering useful space for all your gardening essentials, plus additional hooks.

Dimensions: H162 x W103 x D53cm

This traditional wooden potting bench has handy wheels so it’s effortless to move when needed. There’s a flat, plastic work surface, which is easy to clean, as well as a removable potting tray – a useful feature that keeps the area tidy when filling pots. Two shelves and a drawer are a welcome solution for storage. It comes flatpack, ready to be assembled.

Dimensions: H120 x W97 x D48cm

The Florenity Grigio Potting Table is made from 100 per cent FSC Eucalyptus wood which should be robust and durable for outdoor use. It’s compact with two levels; one for working from with a raised back and sides to prevent spillage and another beneath for storage. It’s guaranteed for one year.

Dimensions: H112 x W70 x D41cm

This practical work bench is made from rust proof, galvanised steel. The lower shelf is adjustable and can allow a generous amount of headroom for storing larger items such as tall plant pots and watering cans if needed and the bench has a raised lip around the sides to keep compost contained.

Dimensions: H80 x W50 x D114cm

This stylish design is slightly narrower than others on the market, which is useful for tight spaces, yet its work surface still offers plenty of room for potting plants, as well as including an integrated sink to keep things clean and tidy. The back is divided into two: one half is a trellis, which can be used for hanging tools or decorating with LED lights; the other is a chalk board – ideal for writing lists or making notes.

Dimensions: H119.5 x W92 x 42.5cm

This tray is designed to sit on top of an existing bench, garden table or other work surface. The wide base gives plenty of  space to work in while the sloped sides, high back panel and raised front lip help prevent spillage, keeping the surrounding surface clear. The tray arrives ready to be assembled at home.

Dimensions: H28 x W61 x D53cm

This lightweight tidy tray by Tierra Garden is a handy accessory for your existing gardening bench or workspace. You can even use it to bring your gardening tasks indoors with limited mess. A high back and raised sides and front help to keep everything inside the tray

Dimensions: H20 x W61 x D56cm

This Product Guide was last updated in February 2025 and we apologise if anything has changed in price or availability.

Forget-me-not (Myosotis), is a humble but glorious spring flower, which appears in frothy blue clouds at the front of borders and at the edges of paths. There are annual, biennial and short-lived perennial forget-me-nots, but the most commonly grown variety Myosotis sylvatica is usually grown as a biennial. It complements other spring flowers, making a great backdrop for taller tulips or wallflowers, and naturalises easily for wilder-style plantings. It can also look great in a window box or container.

There are a few stories attributed to how forget-me-nots got their name. It’s been a symbol of love since the Middle ages and supposedly if you wore it, you would not be forgotten by your loved one. There is also a German legend where a young knight is gathering flowers for his beloved on a river bank but falls in, as he is swept away he throws the flowers to her and calls out ‘Forget me not’.

How to grow forget-me-not

Forget-me-nots are easy to grow from seed and can be sown direct in May or June. The plants will thrive in a sunny or partially shaded spot and will flower in their second year.

Where to grow forget-me-not

The best place to grow forget-me-nots is in moist, but well-drained soil in a sun or partial shade. They look good planted alongside tulips or with other plants that grow well in partial shade such as hostas. Leave them to self seed or sow seed in the summer for flowers the following year.

Growing forget-me-not from seed

Sow forget-me-not seeds directly outdoors in May or June, or indoors in May, June and September. If sowing under cover, sprinkle seeds and cover with compost. Use a heated propagator or a warm windowsill to create the right conditions for germination. Once seedlings are large enough to handle, prick out and pot on. Flowers will appear the following year.

How to plant forget-me-not

Forget me nots are commonly grown from seed, but it’s also possible to buy plug plants or garden ready plants.

• Plug plants – pot up plug plants on arrival and grow on under cover, until they are large enough to plant outside and the danger of frost is over. Harden off the young plants by placing outside during the day for around a week, bringing the plants in at night. Plant in pots or borders in full sun or partial shade. Water until established.
• Garden ready plants – these can be planted outside straight away. Plant with the top of the rootball level with the surrounding soil or compost if planting in a container. Firm in well and water.

Propagating forget-me-not

Forget-me-not will self-seed easily. Either allow them to spread naturally or lift new seedlings and replant where you choose.

How to care for forget-me-not

Most forget-me-not varieties are biennial, meaning they self-seed freely. Pull up the plants before they set seed if you don’t want them to spread too profusely.

Forget me nots are a low-maintenance plant. They don’t need feeding, but they do thrive in moist, not waterlogged soil. Water new plants regularly until established and plants that are growing in containers, especially during hot weather.

Cut back plants after flowering, or remove if you want to avoid too many self sown plants.

Pests and diseases

There are no pests that target myosotis, but foliage can be prone to powdery mildew or downy mildew after flowering.

Forget-me-not varieties to try

• Myosotis scorpioides – the water forget-me-not is an essential perennial for wildlife ponds, either for the edges or in shallow water. It provides shelter for aquatic larvae such as tadpoles, and newts lay eggs in the leaves. Cut back plants after flowering and divide clumps every few years
• Myosotis sylvatica  – the classic forget-me-not is a biennial that grows in clumps with the classic blue flowers appearing in late spring. A biennial, Myosotis sylvatica, will self-seed freely, and produce flowers reliably most years
• Myosotis arvensis – the field forget-me-knot is an annual forget-me-not, with blue and sometimes pink spring flowers that sometimes continue until autumn. The rosettes of leaves will sometimes overwinter successfully
• Myosotis ‘Blue Ball’ – this cultivar grows in neat, compact mounds, to a height of 15cm, with the characteristic blue flowers appearing in spring and early summer
• Myosotis ‘Bluesylva’ – a low, spreading biennial cultivar, the blue flowers have a yellow eye that fades to white
• Myosotis alpestris ‘Victoria’ – with soft pink, blue and white flowers, this has a long flowering period

Frequently asked questions

Do forget-me-nots come back every year?

Myosotis sylvatia, the most widely available forget-me-not grown in gardens, is a short-lived perennial but is usually grown as a biennial. It self seeds and then flowers the following year. As forget-me-nots are continually spreading by seed, once it’s in your garden, it should flower every year.

Are forget-me-nots invasive in the UK?

Forget-me-nots are not listed as invasive, but the RHS does advise keeping on top of plants after they’ve flowered to prevent them becoming invasive. To prevent them becoming a problem, if they are spreading further than you would like, lift or cut back the plants after flowering before they release their seeds.

There are three ways to grow dahlias: from tubers, rooted cuttings or seed.

Tubers are the roots of mature plants and look like a cluster of brown, carrot-like roots joined by the previous year’s dried stem. You can buy them from garden centres or by mail order in spring, or use your own tubers that have been overwintered.

• Buy dahlia tubers from Thompson & Morgan, Suttons, and Crocus.

When to plant dahlia tubers

Starting dahlias in pots is a great way to get them into growth earlier in the season. Simply plant dahlia tubers in large pots filled with peat-free, multi-purpose potting compost in March or early April, and then keep them on a windowsill or in a frost-free greenhouse until late May, when it’s safe to plant them outside.

Starting off dahlia in pots will also encourage them to develop more quickly, so they’re likely to start flowering earlier. Before planting, soak the tubers in a bucket of tepid water for an hour so they can fully rehydrate.

Growing dahlias in pots

Many varieties of dahlia can be grown in pots all year round, providing a splash of colour on patios and balconies. Small to medium-sized dahlias, such as mignon and ruff dahlias, as well as slow-growing water lily, ball and pompom dahlias, do well in containers. Avoid growing cactus dahlias, which can grow to over 2m in height – as a general rule, only grow dahlias which don’t usually require staking.

Grow potted dahlias in a warm, sunny and sheltered spot, protected from strong winds. Water regularly and feed with a phosphate-rich liquid fertiliser once a week.

Use free-draining, peat-free compost and plant the tubers about halfway down, so that the buds on the tuber shafts are only lightly covered with soil. Water well. Pinch out the shoots when they’re around 10cm long, to encourage bushy growth.

Dahlias will come back every year, but if you live in a cold area, in winter you may need to move pots indoor. Simply move them to a frost-free spot, such as an unheated greenhouse. For dahlias growing in the ground, you will need to dig up tubers and store them under cover. Then, in spring, remove as much compost from above and around the tubers as you can, and replace with fresh compost. This will give the tubers a fresh burst of nutrients necessary for the best possible display.

You will need

• Dahlia tubers
• Large pots
• Peat-free multi-purpose compost
• Plant labels
• Pen

Total time: 30 minutes

Step 1

When planting dahlia tubers, ensure the joint where the roots meet the stem is facing upwards. Label your pots and grow on in a greenhouse or sunny windowsill. Keep the tubers well watered.

Step 2

Pinch out the tips of the main shoot, down to the top pair of leaves. You also need to remove most of the shoots growing from the tuber, except for five. This encourages bushy plants, strong, vigorous growth and a lot more flowers.

Step 3

When all risk of frost has passed, harden off your dahlias by placing them outside during the day and bringing them in at night. After a week they will be ready to plant out into their final growing positions.

Frequently asked questions

How do you take care of a dahlia plant? 

To encourage lots of flowers, use a slow-release fertiliser for dahlias growing in pots and deadhead plants regularly to encourage more flowers to form. Stake tall varieties of dahlia and tie them in as they grow. Water dahlias in pots regularly during hot weather, keeping the compost moist.

Do dahlias grow better in pots or in the ground? 

Dahlias grow well in pots and in the ground, but bear in mind that it is easier to move potted dahlias undercover over winter, than it is to lift tubers. If you live in an area that gets cold winters, it may be easier to grow dahlias in pots. It’s better to grow large varieties in the ground, as this will provide more room for their roots.

How do you identify an eye on a dahlia tuber?

The eye is a small bump that can be found at the top of the tuber near the stem. The bump is sometimes purple or green.

Do you separate dahlia tubers before planting? 

It’s not necessary to separate dahlia tubers that you’ve just bought before planting. You may want to divide overgrown clumps in your garden, or that you have overwintered, before replanting in early spring. Divide the tubers at the neck, using a clean sharp knife. Make sure each section has one shoot or eye, and one set of roots.

Hellebores are easy to grow and are undemanding. They look good from January to May – even when their seed has set, their sepals are persistently handsome, eventually becoming green. Their foliage is bold and evergreen, and in some of the new hybrids the marbled leaves are just as celebrated as the flowers.

Hellebore flowers vary in colour, including shades of pink, purple, green and white. They can be striped or spotted, picotee or plain, double or anemone-centred, or simply single.

There are fewer pollinators around when hellebores are in flower, but the blooms bear rich nectar and lots of pollen, making them an instant hit for hungry bumblebees. Most hellebores have downward-facing flowers. Not only does this protect the pollen from winter rains but it also offers shelter to the attendant insect while it feeds. One of the most alluring aspects of growing hellebores is the way in which you have to participate with them, gently turning up their faces to appreciate the uniqueness of each individual.

Hellebores also make great cut flowers – simply snip off flower heads and float in a shallow bowl of water.

How to grow hellebores

Grow hellebores in fertile, well-drained soil at the front of a border, beneath shrubs or in large pots, in sun to partial shade. Cut back the large leathery leaves when flowers and new foliage emerge and mulch plants annually with well-rotted compost or manure. Avoid transplanting hellebores after they have established.

Where to plant hellebores

Hellebores are typically woodland edge plants. They thrive in rich, moisture-retentive soil but struggle in boggy and wet conditions. Most will tolerate full sun to almost full shade. They lend themselves to naturalistic schemes and informal plantings, and are perfect partners for early-flowering spring bulbs, pulmonarias and evergreen ferns.

Grow hellebores at the front of a border in sun, or full or partial shade, depending on the variety you choose. They do best in fertile, well-drained soil, but can also be raised in pots in a loam-based compost (plant them into the border after the display is over).

When to plant hellebores

Hellebores can be planted at any time of year, as long as the soil isn’t frozen. Most hellebores are listed for sale when they’re in flower – from late winter to early spring, but you may find one in the bargain section of a garden centre in summer, which you can plant without any problems. Remember that, once planted, hellebores hate being moved, so avoid moving them once you’ve planted them.

How to plant hellebores

Plant hellebores like other perennials, with a sprinkling of mycorrhizal fungi and a spadeful of garden compost to help the plant settle in. Firm in gently and water well.

Watch Monty Don‘s video guide to planting and growing hellebores, including soil preparation and planting depth, and how to tackle leaf spot disease. Monty also looks at how to choose the best flowers for instant impact, and shows off the diversity of his hellebore collection:

How to care for hellebores

Watering: hellebores are fairly drought tolerant once established. Water them every week after planting until you see signs of growth, and then only when conditions become very dry. Bear in mind that hellebores struggle in waterlogged soils, so don’t water in winter or over-water if you have heavy soil.

Feeding and mulching: mulch annually with well-rotted compost or manure.

Winter care: cut back the large leathery leaves when flowers and new foliage emerge.

How to propagate hellebores

Hellebores struggle when moved, so it’s best not to divide them, and they don’t grow from cuttings. Instead, collect ripe seed and sow into modules to grow new plants for free. Alternatively, let your hellebores self seed around your garden. No hellebore seedling will be true to its parents – by letting them self-seed randomly you’ll create a hodge-podge of different colours and flower shapes. You may even grow your own new hybrid.

Pests and diseases

The main enemy of hellebores is leaf spot, a fungal infection that leaves unsightly brown and black patches on the leaves. Remove affected foliage when you spot it.

Here, Monty Don demonstrates how to identify hellebore leaf spot and explains how to stop it spreading between plants:

Best hellebores to grow

Helleborus viridis is a dainty hellebore with green, chalice-like flowers surrounded by dark foliage. Grow in an open site in well-drained, alkaline soil.
Flowers: Jan-Apr
Height x spread: 30cm x 30cm

• Buy Helleborus viridis from Crocus

Though a well-loved garden plant, even skilled gardeners have trouble persuading it to settle. It does best in light soils.
Flowers: Jan-Feb
H x S: 30cm x 45cm

• Buy Helleborus niger from Thompson & Morgan

This wonderful hybrid hellebore has Helleborus x ericsmithii as one of the parents. Bold plants with striking marbled foliage.
Flowers: Feb-Apr
H x S: 30cm x 30cm

• Buy Helleborus ‘Penny’s Pink’ from Crocus

Also known as the Corsican hellebore, this big, bold plant bears several flower stems, each bearing an imposing cluster of large apple-green flowers.
Flowers: Jan-April
H x S: 50cm x 90cm

• Buy Helleborus argutifolius from Thompson & Morgan

Wester Flisk Group is a selection from our native ‘stinking hellebore’. It has reddish stems, glaucous foliage and pale globose flowers, sometimes with a red rim.
Flowers: Feb-May
H x S: 50cm x 60cm

• Buy Helleborus foetidus from Crocus

Robust yet elegant, Ashwood garden hybrids come in a host of colours and forms, with pure flower colours retained over a long period.
Flowers: Jan-Apr
H x S: 30cm x 30cm

• Buy Helleborus Ashwood Garden Hybrids from Ashwood Nurseries

Helleborus x hybridus bears clusters of saucer-shaped flowers coloured white, pink, green, mauve or smoky purple. Blooms may be plain or patterned. Plants will self-seed readily.

Flowers: Mar-May
H x S: 45cm x 30cm

• Buy Helleborus x hybridus from Thompson & Morgan

Helleborus x ericsmithii is an unusual three-way hybrid hellebore. The evergreen foliage is a rich, deep green, and the flowers are a pale greenish-pink, darkening as they mature.

Flowers: Mar-Apr
H x S: 45cm x 40cm

• Buy Helleborus x ericsmithii from Ashwood Nurseries

Frequently asked questions

Is hellebore poisonous to touch? 

Hellebores are toxic to dogs, cats and humans if eaten, and may cause a minor irritation if your skin comes into contact with the sap. Wear gloves when handling if you’re susceptible to skin issues.

What do you do with hellebores after flowering?

After flowering you can cut the flowerheads back or leave them to self seed. Spent hellebore flowers look attractive so leaving them to seed can extend their season of interest. If you’ve grown hellebores in a pot, transplant them to a permanent spot in the garden after flowering.

Whether you’re starting seeds off in the cold, winter months, encouraging cuttings to root, or raising tender plants originally from warmer climates, a constant heat source will help create the best conditions to nurture them. Heated propagators are an ideal accessory which, depending on the type you choose, either offer a consistent, ambient temperature or can be set at a particular temperature to suit your needs.

Because of our cooler temperatures, plants like tomatoes, aubergines, squashes, chilli and bell peppers need a long growing season to give them time to grow, flower, produce fruit and for the fruit to ripen. Germinating them indoors in a heated propagator early in the year ensures they get the long growing season they need. But even hardier and native plants benefit from being germinated at a constant temperature.

Essentially a watertight plastic tray with a clear lid, heated propagators contain a heating element that keeps the soil at a steady, warm temperature, which encourages root growth in both seeds and cuttings. A basic propagator is pre-set to 15C-21C, the optimum temperature for germination, while more sophisticated models have a soil thermometer and a thermostat to give you greater control depending on what you’re growing.

Another option is a heat mat. Simply, a rubber or plastic mat with a heating coil inside to provide bottom heat to seedlings and plants, they’re a cheaper way to help increase germination and easy to use- simply lay the mat out flat on a dry, even surface and place your tray of seedlings or pots on top. However, they lack a cover and so are unable to create humid conditions, which is also beneficial when seeds are germinating and the soil needs to stay moist. But they’re great for storage, as they can simply be rolled up and put away when not in use.

Growing other plants? Check out our guides to the best self-watering planters, or the best garden cloches. And if you’re growing in a greenhouse, our useful greenhouse accessories article is worth a look.

Jump to:

• How to choose a heated propagator
• How to use a heated propagator
• Heated vs non electric propagators

The best heated propagators and heat mats

Garland Fab 4 Electric Heated Propagator

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The Fab 4 propagator is a great entry-level propagator for new gardeners. It gives a first-time user ease and simplicity without compromising on quality. With four cells, it’s great for growing a range of plants for the first time and easily keeping track of what’s what.

Price: £42.15

Buy Garland Fab 4 Electric Heated Propagator from B&Q

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Garland Super7 Electric Heated Propagator

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This heated propagator from Garland is built for propagating in bulk and can grow seven different cells of plants at once. If you’re after a bumper harvest, this lengthy propagator can give a host of plants a head-start.

Price: £60.75

Buy the Garland Super7 electric heated propagator from B&Q

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Electric Starter Propagator

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If you’re keeping a close eye on your energy bill, this electric propagator from Harrod Horticultural is a good option, with the 10 watt heated base using only a sixth of the power of a normal lightbulb. The lid has an adjustable vent which lets you have control over the humidity levels in the propagator depending on what you’re growing.

Price: 29.95

Buy the Electric Starter Propagator from Harrod Horticulture

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EarlyGrow Heated Electric Shatterproof 2-bay self-watering propagator

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Simply plug in and use, this heated propagator produces a steady temperature ranging from 16°C – 21°C (60°F-82°F). Made in the UK with robust and durable shatterproof lids, it’s ideal for novice gardeners as it’s self-watering. The individual bays allow you to grow multiple seeds or cuttings simultaneously without fear of confusion.

Price: £39.95

Buy the EarlyGrow Heated Electric Shatterproof 2-bay Self-Watering Propagator from Amazon

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 One Top Electric Propagator

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This small propagator is a great choice if you’re strapped for space, or just want to grow a few chillies on the windowsill. Using even less energy than it takes to power a light bulb, seedlings will benefit from the constant, extra warmth. The vent is a useful feature, which helps control humidity levels, and though its footprint is small, its clearance is 12cm, which is plenty of room for young plants to get started.

Price: £39.50

Buy the Garland One Top Electric Propagator from Robert Dyas

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Big 3 Automatic Temperature Control Electric Propagator

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For a truly bumper season’s growth, look no further than the Garland Big 3. This monster propagator holds three 37.5cm by 23cm trays at once, so you can give kale, tomatoes, sweet peas and chillies a head start at a balmy 19°C, all at the same time.

Price: £143.99

Buy the Garland Big 3 Automatic Temperature Control Electric Propagator from Thompson and Morgan

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Large Propagator with Height Extender

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This large propagator is perfect if you’re growing large plants of cuttings, and it can also  be moved outside to allow seeds access to direct sunlight once the weather warms up a bit. Until we get there though there’s a heated mat which works at 15C above the ambient temperature to help plant germination and growth.

Price: £44.99

Buy the large propagator with height extender from Marshalls

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Gro-Sure 50cm propagation mat

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Water and dirt resistant this heated mat is big enough to help warm three standard size seed trays or a combination of pots and trays on its 50cm x 25cm surface. It heats to an ambient temperature around 5-15 Centigrade to give all your seeds and cuttings a head start.

Price: £35.00

Buy the Gro-Sure 50cm propagation mat from B&Q

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Riogoo Seedling Heat Mat and Thermostat

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This heat mat has a thermostat sensor probe, which helps maintains a stable temperature between 20°C – 42°C (68°F-107°F), and features a digital keypad so it’s easy to operate. It comes with a one year warranty.

Price: £32.99

Buy the Riogoo Seedling Heat Mat and Thermostat from Amazon

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ROOT!T Heat Mat

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Provide bottom heat to seed trays and pots to help speed up germination and help cuttings to take root. Hard-wearing and easy to use, the mat can be wiped-clean and rolled up after use. It comes with a thermostat for complete temperature control and can be used directly on staging or a table. Available in sizes small, medium and large.

Price: From £21.94

Buy ROOT!T heat mats from Amazon

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EarlyGrow Large PVC Propagation Heat Mat

At 55 x 35cm this heat mat is ideal for larger propagators. It will produce temperatures 15°c above the ambient temperature, helping young plant growth in cooler months of the year.

Price: £39.95

Buy the EarlyGrow Large PVC Propagation Heat Mat from EarlyGrow and Amazon

How to choose a heated propagator

Consider the following when shopping for a propagator:

• Space – Unless you have a greenhouse with a power source, most of us will use a heated propagator at home. Position it on a flat surface; a windowsill out of direct sunlight is a good spot to ensure seedlings don’t scorch on sunny days.
• Size – Make sure the dimensions of the propagator are right for your needs. If you’re planning to grow on tender plants you’ll need a taller propagator than if you’re germinating seedlings.
• Features – For most projects, a basic heated propagator, with a watertight tray and a shatterproof lid with ventilation  is fine. However, if you’ve the budget to spare, look for self-watering propagators or those with lights to further help propagation.

How to use a heated propagator

To get the most out of your heated propagator, ensure trays are clean and plant your seeds in damp compost. Place the propagator somewhere light and well-aired and switch it on. Keep an eye on your germinating plants and if excessive condensation forms on the inside of the lid, open the ventilating holes to regulate the temperature a little.

In need of further inspiration? Browse more heated propagators and heat mats on Crocus, Thompson & Morgan, Two Wests & Elliot, Keen Gardener and Suttons.

Heated vs non-electric propagators

A non-electric propagator is simply a seed or modular tray with a transparent lid that aims to provide seeds and young plants with a consistent growing environment. The lid helps to increase the humidity within as well as generate and trap warmth, particularly if placed in a sunny spot. Some have ventilation in the lid and may even have watering spots so you can water without removing the lid and splashing plants. Lids can also be purchased separately so you can add them to your seed trays as you need them.

Non-electric propagators are a lot cheaper than a heated propagator, but without the extra, regulated warmth and bottom heat that you get in a heated propagator, growth will be slower and less consistent.

Sounds like they’re what you’re after? Buy non-electric propagators from Waitrose, Thompson & Morgan, Crocus and Amazon.

This Product Guide was last updated in January 2025. We apologise if anything has changed in price or availability.

Mirabilis jalapa is a night-scented plant that blooms over a long period in summer. Ideal for growing in pots and borders, it bears trumpet-shaped flowers in a range of colours including pink, red, yellow, and white, on small bushy plants. These open in late afternoon or early evening, which gives it one of its common names, ‘four o’clock plant’. Another popular name is marvel of Peru, due to its Central and South American origins. Widely naturalised worldwide in frost-free countries, Mirabilis jalapa can be invasive, but in the UK there are no such issues as it only survives winter in the mildest areas.

How to grow Mirabilis jalapa

Grow Mirabilis jalapa from seed or buy dormant tubers, from late winter to mid spring. Plant out after the last frosts, in a sunny, sheltered site. Water regularly and feed monthly. In most of the UK, Mirabilis jalapa is borderline hardy and best treated as an annual, discarded when flowering finishes. Alternatively, lift the tuberous roots in autumn and store frost-free to replant the following spring.

Where to grow Mirabilis jalapa

The sweet evening scent and long flowering period of Mirabilis jalapa makes it ideal for patio pots or beds. Site in full sun and fertile soil that drains freely. Mirabilis jalapa grows to around 45-90 cm tall. Best planted in groups or clumps of three to five plants.

How to plant Mirabilis jalapa

The easiest way to grow Mirabilis jalapa is to buy dormant tubers, sold in winter to early spring. For flowers from early to mid-summer, plant in large pots and keep under cover until all risk of frost has past, before moving outside. Alternatively, plant outdoors in mid- to late-spring for a later flowering start. Plant tubers 8-10cm deep and spaced 15-20cm apart in a good multi-purpose potting compost. Plants raised indoors need to be gradually hardened off or acclimatised to the outdoors by standing out for increasing periods of time.

How to care for Mirabilis jalapa

Plants in the ground need little attention apart from a monthly feed with liquid fertiliser high in potash, such as tomato food. Those in pots need regular watering as well as a monthly feed, though take care not to over-water or the fleshy roots could rot.

To overwinter Mirabilis jalapa, continue feeding and watering for several weeks after flowering, still taking care not to over-water, until the leaves start to die back. Allow the growth to die completely before cutting off the stems just above the ground and digging up the roots. Store in trays of compost kept barely moist, in a cool frost-free place. In late winter, repot the roots into moist compost and place in a warm spot to start into growth.

How to prune Mirabilis jalapa

No regular pruning required.

How to propagate Mirabilis jalapa

Collect the black seeds from spent flowers in late summer, and store them in a paper envelope to sow the following season. Sow seed indoors in late winter to early spring, in a heated propagator set to 18ºC. Mirabilis jalapa seeds need light to germinate, so cover with ½ cm of perlite or vermiculite, rather than compost. Once seedlings have germinated and have formed true leaves, transplant to individual 8cm pots and grow on, still using bottom heat if you need to, until well established.

Alternatively, dig up, divide and replant the tubers in spring.

Pests and diseases

Mirabilis jalapa is easy to grow and trouble-free. Aphids may be a problem, particularly on plants growing indoors. Inspect leaf undersides regularly and also look out for aphid honeydew on the surface beneath the plant. A variety of treatments can be used to combat aphids, though often hand-squashing is all that’s necessary if spotted early.

Frequently asked questions

Is Mirabilis jalapa annual or perennial?

Mirabilis jalapa is perennial in frost-free environments but is usually treated as an annual in the UK, where winter temperatures are rarely sufficiently mild for plants to survive outdoors. To keep this plant over winter it is necessary to lift, dry, and store the tubers in a frost-free place to replant the following year.

Blackberry season, whether you’re an experienced forager, weekend bramble picker, proud grower of cultivated blackberries, or simply someone who enjoys snacking on fresh berries from the shop, is a special time. Blackberries are a quintessential autumn fruit in the UK and no British autumn is complete without them. Understanding blackberry picking season and how to responsibly harvest them can make the growing, picking, cooking and eating of them even more rewarding.

When are blackberries in season?

The season for blackberries in the UK is August, September and early October, depending on the weather. They can be grown in the garden under netting, their canes trained along wires to produce fruit every year. For more details take a look at our How To Grow Blackberries guide.

These cultivated varieties, which also appear in shops in autumn, are large and juicy compared to the wild blackberries found in hedgerows at the same time of year. Wild blackberries, or brambles as they are sometimes known, are smaller and often tarter, but have the advantage of being free and requiring no tending or garden space.

According to ancient folklore, blackberries picked after Michaelmas Day (29th September) are cursed and have been, amongst other things, spat on by witches and/or Lucifer depending on which tale you read. Whilst the precise nature of the curse is open to interpretation, this date does roughly mark the point at which wild blackberries turn soft and mushy and are best left to the birds, so get out bramble picking before then!

Can you eat wild blackberries?

Yes, wild blackberries are perfectly safe to eat, provided you follow the guidelines set out below.

How to identify wild blackberries

Blackberries are relatively easy to recognise making them a great crop for beginner foragers. They have arching, thorny brambles that can reach up to 3 metres high, pale pink and white flowers that look like tiny wild roses (they are part of the same family) and clusters of juicy, dark berries. The leaves are dark green, serrated and oval and tend to cluster in groups of 3 or 5 around a short stem. However, always be sure you’re harvesting from a blackberry bush and not other common hedgerow berries which may be poisonous. If in doubt, consult a local foraging guide or expert.

How to pick blackberries

While you can buy large, juicy blackberries from the shops, there’s nothing like getting sticky, juice-stained fingers and picking wild blackberries yourself from the hedgerows. Follow these tips for a fruitful harvesting experience:

1. Where to find wild blackberries

• Blackberry brambles are very common and grow wild across Britain. They love to ramble undisturbed in the sunshine over tall structures
• They can be found growing up trees and bushes in hedgerows, forests and the edges of woodlands
• But they also grow in more urban spaces like the edges of playing fields, park hedges or along canal sides

2. How to choose the right location

• Avoid blackberries growing near busy roads as the pollution may contaminate the berries
• Only pick berries above dog height – no one wants blackberries that have been used as a toilet
• Blackberries thrive in sunny spots. Look for brambles in open fields or near the edges of forests that face south or have a good amount of sunlight

3. When to pick blackberries

• When is blackberry season in the UK? The season can begin as early as July if the weather is warm and sunny and can run until October if it remains dry but not so dry that the berries shrivel
• How to spot a ripe blackberry: the berries transition from firm and red to plump, deep purple or black when they’re ready to be picked. Blackberries don’t ripen after picking so look for berries that are uniformly black, glossy, and slightly soft when gently squeezed. Avoid any that are red or pale purple, as they’ll be too tart. Ripe berries will pull away from the bramble easily. If you have to tug, it’s not ready yet
• The best time to pick blackberries: on a sunny morning as this ensures cooler temperatures and fresher, juicer and sweeter berries, but without them being parched by the midday sun

4. Dress appropriately

• Wear long sleeves and trousers: blackberry bushes are notorious for their thorns, which can cause nasty scratches. Sturdy clothing protects you from prickles, potential insect bites and nettle rash
• Sturdy shoes: since blackberries often grow in uneven terrain, wear walking shoes with good grip
• Gloves: thin gardening gloves will protect your fingers from thorns and nettles and prevent them staining

5. Harvesting technique

• Pick with hands only: do not cut brambles as this can harm wildlife habitat and may cause disease or damage the plant
• Pull gently: ripe blackberries should come off the stem with minimal effort
• Handle with care: blackberries are delicate and bruise easily
• What to carry blackberries in: use a wide, shallow container to prevent berries at the bottom from being crushed whilst you forage. Something with a handle is especially convenient for carrying through fields

6. Storing them at home

• Check for stowaways: leave blackberries spread out on kitchen paper in the garden for an hour so any bugs can crawl away
• Should you wash blackberries? Submerging gently in cold water is best. Soaking the delicate berries or agitating them in water will bruise or burst them
• Use immediately: wild blackberries are best eaten the day they are picked. Stew them with a little sugar and freeze until needed or make one of the recipes suggested below

Responsible foraging

Foraging is a fantastic way to connect with nature, but it comes with responsibilities to ensure the sustainability of wild spaces and respect for other foragers:

1. Ask permission

• Some regions have specific rules about foraging on public or private lands. Always check if you need a permit or permission to forage, especially in parks or nature reserves
• Always ask permission of the landowner before foraging, even if it’s just a bramble on someone’s garden wall

2. Leave no trace

• Avoid trampling plants or disturbing surrounding vegetation
• Take any rubbish with you, and avoid using plastic bags that can blow away in the wind
• Don’t pull brambles out of trees or damage the plant in any way

3. Harvest mindfully

• Only take what you’ll use and leave enough berries for wildlife and other foragers
• To prevent over-harvesting, don’t pick from the same patch too frequently
• Hedgerows are a food source and habitat for many creatures, so take care not to disturb nests or step on burrows

Ways to cook with blackberries

Wild blackberries often have a more robust, tangy flavour than cultivated varieties, making them a favourite for jams, pies, and syrups. Shop bought are good for cakes or just eating with yogurt for breakfast.

• Crumbles – the most traditional way to serve blackberries. This easy apple and blackberry crumble recipe from our friends at Good Food is a favourite because the crumble is baked separately making for an extra crunchy topping
• Jam – blackberries are rarely sickly sweet so they are perfect to balance a bramble or hedgerow jam. Or put them centre stage as here in this blackberry jam from the Good Food team
• With venison – blackberries pair brilliantly with venison. Try pickling them in pickling liquor made from equal amounts of cider vinegar and honey for 10 minutes then serving with rare venison steak, or make this tart and glossy blackberry sauce from the Good Food team
• Salad – a few tart blackberries will enliven a wintery salad of chicken and bitter leaves
• Cakes – little bursts of juicy blackberries take easy bakes to the next level. The Good Food team suggest this super simple blackberry and apple loaf, blackberry and hazelnut flapjack with extra jammyness, or this showstopping blackberry and orange cake which is ideal for autumn birthdays

Pruning Buddleja davidii is essential if you want to keep it looking its best. If you don’t prune your buddleia it can become tatty and overgrown, developing a twiggy tangle of bare stems, with the flowers appearing way above head height.

When to prune buddleia

Hard prune your buddleia in early spring. The most vigorous varieties will still grow to 3m tall and 2m across by summer, while the smaller forms, such as ‘Nanho Blue’, can be kept to less than 1.5m in height and spread. Alternatively, by pruning later in spring, you can ensure your buddleia flowers later in summer, to coincide with the emergence of the summer butterflies like the peacock and small tortoiseshell. Pruning as late as May can delay flowering until August, providing nectar when there’s little else available.

Bear in mind that Buddleja alternifolia and Buddleja globosa bloom on stems made in the previous season, so cutting back in spring would remove the flower buds. Neither should be hard pruned – instead, cut out a selection of the oldest branches in midsummer.

How to prune buddleia

You will need:

• Secateurs
• Pruning saw
• Long-handled loppers

Step 1

First, trim back the top growth to around half its height, using secateurs. This makes it easier to see what you’re doing as you progress, and gives you better access to the base of the plant.

Step 2

Cut through the thick woody stems, around 30cm above the ground, using a pair of loppers or a pruning saw. Where possible, prune just above a bud or growing shoot. If you’d like the plant to grow taller than 3m (for example, if it’s at the back of a border), leave the stems up to 60cm long.

Step 3

Remove any dead stubs and branches using the pruning saw or loppers. Cut these back flush with the main trunk to minimise the chance of dieback. Also thin out any crossing branches to prevent rubbing, and remove any thin twiggy growth sprouting from the base. Don’t worry that you’re being too brutal, as buddleja is so vigorous that it will quickly re-grow.

Step 4

Aim to produce a short, strong framework of five to six main branches. It doesn’t matter if you can’t see many green shoots, as buddleja will produce new growth from underneath the bark. Fork lightly around the base to relieve any compaction you’ve caused by walking on the soil, and apply a mulch to the soil surface to retain moisture and suppress weeds.

Frequently asked questions

How do you prune an overgrown buddleia?

An overgrown buddleia can be pruned in the same way. Remove top growth first, so you can see what you’re doing, and then use a pruning saw and loppers to prune back to a framework 30-60cm above ground level. It’s very hard to kill a buddleia so don’t worry about hard pruning such a large shrub.

Do you deadhead buddleia? 

Yes, deadheading buddleia can prolong its flowering season, providing more garden interest as well as more nectar for pollinators.